Makan gems in the new Sutra |
Often, we come across a little eatery, probably run by some mum and pop which had been happily satisfying all their fussy regulars over the decades and lying just below the public or the media’s popular radar. Then some smart ass makan avatar (sometimes me), comes along, get swept off the feet by their food and blitz then to all and sundry.
Then usually, this inevitably follows, “Eh, why this nut case go and tell everyone about them, cannot just eat, enjoy and shut up or what!”, or “ Wah, now kena queue so long and the standard drop. The Ah Pek cannot handle so many customers so they anyhow do the dish just to get rid of the impatient customers. Stupid food writer!”, and some other comments that are not so reader friendly. Once at a queue at a kway chap stall, a post war white-collared greasy-haired relic standing in front turned around, recognised me and spewed a “because of you I kena queue, I have never queued in all my ten years as a regular here. You are too much, you *#@X*^&^%$!”. Very often, I get asked if there any such gems of an
eatery that I will never reveal and remain selfish about
it. Well, it’s a yes and no situation. You’ll
have to figure that one out yourselves. Golden City Carrot Cake The cranky old lady does not even look at you when you order as she stands there, bow legged due to thirty years of slaving over the stove doing the same old stuff. Her version comes with a softer cake is done very “tiam” (well fried) and full of wok hei. They chai po (preserved radish bits) and eggs are generous but what takes the cake here is the crispy own made little ikan bilis she sprinkles on the dish before it is served. Ocassionally, bits of the anchovy heads are intact and it can lend a little bitterness to it, but it is overall, very delectable. Yi Xin Vegetarian The first time I bought their vegetarian kong bak pao for a carnivorous colleague, he wolfed it down not knowing the difference and ask for seconds the next day. They also serve a huge range of cleverly done dishes to go with their noodles or rice (brown rice too). A serving of the stir fried pumpkin, “pork chops” (ridiculously real in texture), and some greens with tofu and a cheap and good meal is in store. Their soup of the day can include stuff like a light and hearty bamboo pith fungus and it costs only 50cents. Nongkhai Beer House This place is loud, brave and authentically Thai. But thankfully, Thai owner Mdm Donsuda speaks a smattering of English and she’ll ease you through ordering their meant-for-Thais specialties like her glass noodle and papaya salad with raw crabs and prawns (unforgivingly spicy). They also have a stewed pork skin salad (very chewy yet not irritatingly so) which is my personal favorite. They make one of the better Khai Yang (grilled chicken) with sticky rice around. The place is cheerful and bright but yes, it does reek a bit of fish sauce and lime. Lau Pa Sat Taiwan Porridge How they manage to churn out so many dishes (the menu is in fine print on a poster that practically covers the whole stall front) in that little hawker stall is admirable. They cook each order ala minute and it comes piping hot and fresh. Their chai po omelet is a signature as is their bean sprouts with salted fish. I adore their fried pomfret in bean sauce and the pork with Szechuan vegetables. Order enough for a big group and they leave a whole pot of refillable sweet potato porridge on the table for you. Makansutra 2009, with 1100 rated and illustrated listings is out now at the bookshops at a recommended price of $14.80. |
