They came, they saw, they dazzled and then they faded away. I may jolly well sound like we are talking about some faded Hollywood has-been but no, it’s about finer eateries. Over the last decade or two, many stellar eateries have graced and pleased our palates- they had no real complains about their food and service save for the few dressed up personal and vindictive comments. Like the old Bice restaurant once sitting proudly as a culinary icon in the Goodwood Park Hotel, or Salut, the once die-die-must-try Makansutra rated French eatery at Tanjong Pagar or even the loud, proud and respected Gaetano’s, formerly off Club Street or even the newer victim of operational viability and the downturn, Canton Wok at Joo Chiat. They were all once good makan temples but are now relegated to history. So what makes a good eatery tick, tock and stay relevant, even in tough times. Bice may be now history but its legacy remains- many ex-staffers and chefs went on to set their own respectable Italian joints here like Senso, Oso and even Il Lido at Sentosa. The former Belgian executive chef at Salut (whom was not proud to concede and I’ll not name him) felt his award winning smoked duck breast “cannot compete with Singaporean’s love for roast duck at Geylang.”, so he upped and left for Australia. As for Canton Wok, I guess boss Chef Kang was a victim of his own ambitions and ideals.

It's packed, despite the downturn and is still
recommended that you book in advance.

But of late, I noted a curious case – this eatery had been around for four years, seen a couple of downturns and at my recent lunch there, I would not be able to get a table had I not booked two days earlier. The creations at Wild Rocket aren’t cheap either although boss Wilin Low says they actually serve “fine food at casual prices”. His pasta dishes can hover around $20. Added to this, his simple eatery is located at some hard to find hideout in town, a shout away from the quietly mean fences that skirt our Istana. One would expect these establishments to crumble in dire times like now but Willin, who has brought all his acumen as a former legal beagle into the kitchen with an eager ladle, cooks not just from the heart, but the head. “Business slumped up to 30% since last year and there were erratic days when we shoot through the roof.”, and he adds that he is of late seeing signs of improvement. Diners are eating with a tighter budget at his restaurant and even his set lunches and dinners, at between $25 to $50, aren’t quite a steal either. Willin’s well crafted reasons is that they are “ the only local restaurant selling mod Singaporean food”, “ a in a get away stress free location” and “good value.” I agree with the first and last reasoning (although good value can mean a $70 meal there) but still leaves you guessing why they continue to reel them in.

The shitake pieti cup comes with three delights
- texture, taste and fragrance

My reading on this- good food, sharp service and a boss who circulates with a smile and a humble disposition. That was not one of Gaetano’s better virtues nor was there a face to the place at Bice. Eating at a prime restaurant is about the chef, not the brand. Dining must be revered first as social exercise, then as a business, and staying relevant to your target market, is a mantra you must chant everyday. And it helps that Wild Rocket is not intimidating- toddlers on baby chairs are seen feeding next to mod mummies who dine. He currently offers a good value 6 course degustation (tasting samplers) at $128++ for two tummies. Their kueh pieti cup with truffle infused shitake was charming in idea, flavour and texture- two chomps and its gone but it lingers in the palate. He created and stylized his “childhood food”- congee soup with seafood and egg emulsion - simply an overboiled mushy ball of porridge in clear broth with swimmer crab and prawns with fancy egg streaks atop. Very comforting (but as kid, mine had fishballs and ikan bilis, not swimmer crabs). Remember the yue sang platters in gaudy Chinese restaurants where the slice raw fish was neatly arranged on a plate? He then served just that, with sea-bass, orange shallot oil and arugula leaves. His next offering of dry mee kia (branded as spaghettini there) tossed in crustacean oil and bonito flakes was to remind you of the menu’s Asian soul. The simple pan seared rib eye with truffle sabayon was nice, but it’s like the many former Miss Universe winners, not memorable. And although his pandan panna cotta with gula melaka hits home, I’ve had a more stunning version done with chendol dressing at Dempsey Village before.

Childhood mushy seafood porridge soup with a prime twist –
in swimmer crabs and prawns

I now see his “stress free, get away” point- stress free experience and service, and to get away from lousy food. In a time when there are still enough pockets to afford a $35 meal, this one works well for it.