Just enjoy, don’t bother about who owns this. |
I would like to start today’s story with a little pause, and I rightly belief it is for the right cause. Stop this who-owns-what and what-dish-came-from-where chest thumping already. Anymore questions on this heading my way and I’ll be so tempted to make stories up just to throw vinegar into the chocolate mousse and add more colour to this wayang (who knows, I’ll come up with yet another concoction we can own, wow!). Who cares about who owns laksa when it is available cheaply, done deliciously in clean environment and available at every coffeeshop and hawker centre. But really, food is meant to be devoured and savoured, not kidnapped.
Now, I can go back to my order of the day and recant a tale about the joy of makan, something I will always savour. My first meal with makan and travel anthropologist Anthony Bourdain way back in 2003 was arranged when his agent asked if I could take this chap out for a Singapore style meal for this new food show. They went on to say how the show could not claim to have been to Singapore if I did not lead him for a meal. I said ok ( I don’t even know who Tony was then). Since a free meal beckoned and I was missing Danny’s crab beehoon at Geylang, I thought “what the heck”, just lay my terms on them thick. We cruised through $650 of seafood and beer that night and the grand finale was the signature crab beehoon dish, which had Tony slurping and gnawing and then going on a dark, long and enlightening impromptu monologue which ended with a “ I would be happy if the world ended right now.” . That, was someone who came, saw, devoured and celebrated makan. He did not care who owned the dish. My response to that celebration of life was, “why do you talk so much when there is so much good food before you.” Look heavenwards if you want to know who owns that dish that brought joy. I’ve had the pleasure of watching Danny churn out his iconic signature in his Sin Huat Coffeeshop stall up close, many times over. The technique is no quantum physics and I’ve asked and the only secret he’ll not reveal to me is what swirls in his magic stock pot that gives his beehoon dish that zing. I’ve seen whole chickens and seafood bits simmering inside but I am very sure there are much more than meets the eye. So to further my note of enjoying this addictive seafood noodle, here’s my take on his recipe. (Many have tried to emulate Danny’s version, and at best they are pathetic, perhaps this one too, and please, don’t ask where this dish came from in Lor 35 Geylang, Singapore)
Braised Crab Beehoon (for 4)
Ingredients Method Fry the beehoon in wok with some oil till it browns a little at the edges and set aside. Boil 1.5 litre of the chicken stock with oyster sauce, dried shrimps and ikan bilis – bring to a boil. Then boil the chopped crabs in the stock.for about 10 minutes, together with the sliced ginger. Remove the boiled crabs from the pot and set them aside. Braise the beehoon in the chicken / crab stock till it is soft yet firm (for about 4mins.) Then put the vegetables and toppings (except the coriander and fried shallots) and stir fry. It should be wet and saucy at this stage. Add soy sauce, salt and salt to taste. Then add the crabs in and thicken it with a tablespoon of cornstarch. Splash the Hsiao Hsing wine in. Plate and serve, topped with the crispy fried shallots and coriander. |
