So this is the time of the year when the Chinese diaspora here go “whoa, thank goodness that this is multicultural makan metropolis man. Otherwise, got to eat fast food” as many Chinese food vendors are still on holiday mood or perhaps stretching the weekend to enjoy what the casinos have to offer. Not only the Indians, Muslims and western makans vendors are out in full force but also the Vietnamese, Thais and the Pinoys too.

Of course there’s always that platter of Indian rojak, soup kambing and nasi goreng putih with ikan bilis from Ayer Rajah Food Centre or at the Tekka Food Centre eagerly awaiting your kind patronage. And the Middle Eastern cafes and nasi padang vendors all over Arab Street and North Bridge Road area are all in the full swing of things. And hey, don’t forget that big bowl of beef kway teow or grilled chicken with som tam papaya salad at the tip of Beach Road in the Golden Mile Complex served up by the Thais who would just regard this Chinese New Year as yet another holiday season that equates to good business and ang pows from appreciative guests.

Then, there is this loud row of proud little and not so little Indian makan houses along Race Course Road. If you’ve only ever gone there just for the two famous fish head curry restaurants, then I apologise for this sad habit of yours. You should get your bottom off that car seat and trot along this wonderfully fragrant row of Indian eateries. Ok, the cynical and the habitual would wind up back at Muthu’s or the Apollo Banana Leaf for their fish heads and slap the back of my head and go “what la, nothing else here for me here la”. Sorry again. But if you take a closer look and see beyond the simple décor and the nonchalant entrance of some of these little Indian eateries, there’s more than the usual broad stroke Indian menu on offer, there’s Gujarati, Goan, Bengali, Lucknavi and of course, fish head curry.

Led by the baked fish Meen Pollichatu, this spread might was well be a uniquely Indian yet auspicious Chinese New Year meal.

One gem, is called Spice Junction (and why would that simple name make you stop to observe even if this junction had traffic lights and speed cameras). We had been taking many groups here as part of our Makansutra Food Tours and it was not just the food quality but the response from the participants that impressed us. “This is not so Indian yet is so spicy”, “I’m already full but this is arousing my palate for more” or “I can eat this every day”, was some of the usual feedback we get.

I combined their appom with the Kerala Fried Prawns
and it is one sensation I will not forget

This time, I made my way back again and wanted to diligently recommend four of my favourites there (so I can play my role in not encouraging excesses this Chinese New Year). I ordered what felt like four dishes and eight dishes showed up. And some can be quite auspicious for this season. The Kerala Fried Prawn ($13.90), led the charge. Mid sized prawns are dunked in a Kerala style rempah or masala, and deep fried with curry leaves. The thick, mildly spicy marinate turned crispy and the prawns remained juicy and succulent inside. It was fantastic with their white coloured Chicken Briyani ($10.90- fluffy basmati grains with chicken and a masala base with egg and bits of fried shallots and greens, and not oily), their house specialty. Or so I thought, until they brought out the Chicken Roast (don’t let this bland name fool you). They deep fry fresh chicken pieces and then stew them in a #(^@*&# spicy masala that reeks of ground chilli powder and coriander. All other spices used were mere bystanders in this burn-your-lips spicy stew. Their Meen Pollichatu ($13.90) was a spicy snapper baked in banana leaf and it sort of look like a yu sheng salad with the shredded red and green salad accompanying it. I enjoyed it with a slice of their appom which was not hawker crispy style but was smooth and substantial in sensation. The sweetish coconut milk and rice flour appom and the chicken masala/ Meen Pollichatu combo was stunningly addictive for me (used to having appom with brown sugar). I must advise that you order their Gobi Manchuria ($9.90), simple fried cauliflower tossed in a not so simple Kerala style masala. It’s the sweet vegetable and spice combo that never fail to get me here.

One of the best chicken briyani I’ve had,
and it comes looking so calm and fluffy.

And if you still need your fish curry fix, boss Mr Sunil Deep and his team does it well with a twist that includes using a dried sour herb called kudampuli which replaces the less healthy tamarind for that tangy effect.