Destination Dining at Black Forest
By Text by Dr. Kevin and Iroshini Chua @ Makansutra Images by Dr. Kevin Chua - Saturday, Jan 07, 2012
It was a seven months wait for a meal. That was how far in advance this couple reserved a table at the 3 Star Michelin restaurant located at the heart of a forest in Germany. A little extreme? Probably. Rated in the top 100 of the S.Pellegrino list in 2011, Restaurant Schwartzwaldstube is run by Chef Harold Wohfarhrt . It is located in one of the most scenic areas in Germany, thus the journey starts on the road – destination dining at its truest definition.
We drove south from Frankfurt and based ourselves in the Black Forest, a relatively short three hour journey. As you make your way through the Black Forest, also called Schwartzwald, expect one of the world’s most picturesque drives, full of rolling hills, vast grasslands and whispering trees. The entire landscape was covered with varying shades of green, with colours so intense it made the German houses that dotted the land look like little chocolates decorations.
At Restaurant Schwartzwaldstube, the décor was a combination of old wood carvings and paneling with modern elements which included white table cloths and teal blue trimmings. Each table had a single golden insect shaped decoration.
The starter for the 5-course lunch menu was terrine of grilled duck liver in jelly of old Madeira with green pepper. Needless to say, the presentation was very pretty. The liver was grilled close to perfection. Its texture was moist and the dish had earthy flavors throughout and was not overly gamey tasting.
This was followed by wild smoked salmon slices accompanied by la ratte potatoes with caviar, oysters and asparagus salad vinaigrette. It has very fresh seafood despite being located at the top of a mountain deep in the forest.
Next we had crayfish gratin, on truffled leek with champagne bisque. The crayfish had a succulent texture yet was soft and melted in your mouth. The truffle was very rich but did not manage to overpower the whole dish while the champagne bisque left a lingering, and very welcome taste on the palate.
The main course was Tornedos of Angus beef and braised oxtail with the tarragon-balsamic glaze. The meat was soft and had complex flavours – the tangy taste of the balsamic vinegar with the herbal flavours of the teragon was mixed in with very soft beef and oxtail.
They also offered a selection of cheeses from the trolley supplied by a cheese artisan in Strassberg who is extremely picky on which restaurants and individuals he sells his products to. With a large selection of cheeses, our steward started us with the mild cheeses on one end of the plate and finished it with the stronger flavours.
The desert was chocolate meringue with mango sorbet, with again, pretty presentation but the flavours were rich and intense. Service was impeccable with staff being very polite and attentive, without being obtrusive, giving you space and time to enjoy your meal. The crowd was sophisticated and gentlemen are advised to wear a blazer or jacket. One tip: Book well in advance in order to avoid disappointment.
Waiting seven months may seem extreme to some for a meal, but it was an experience that tantalised the sights, sounds and palate. Not for fast food lovers.
Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube
Tonbachstrasse 237 D-72270 Baiersbronn (Baden-Württemberg) Germany Tel. : + 49 (0)7442 4920 Closed on Monday and Tuesday Closed annually from January 10th to 31st and from August 1st to 27th.