Chinese restaurants have always guarded their traditions with pride. But in recent generations, more and more are looking Westward for inspiration. Like the folk tale of the monk Xuanzang who travelled West with his companions (Monkey King, Monk Pig and Friar Sand) in search of sutras and enlightenment, they realise they cannot simply subsist on copying the days of old. So, gone now are the auspicious colours of red and gold, the rosewood furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Many Chinese restaurants prefer a contemporary look, not just in decor but also food presentation. Even Western ingredients like bacon, truffles and foie gras are no longer a surprise. The younger set may consider traditional Chinese restaurants too fuddy-duddy if the latter doesn’t try to modernise the experience. Where Xuanzang found better knowledge, the Chinese restaurants may find better business keeping up with the times.
Along with a new focus on tea-pairing, Man Fu Yuan also introduced tea-infused dishes, but main signature items remain classically Cantonese.
Paradise Pavilion features French neo-classical themes and Victorian-style walls, with luxurious textures and turquoise hues.
Even noodles which are usually cooked and served in one large batch can be presented in unconventional ways. Wok-fried ramen with abalone at Paradise Pavilion in an individual serving.
The revamped Man Fu Yuan at InterContinental Hotel Singapore is bathed in soft pastels, and accented with contemporary woods and custom-made butterfly chandeliers.
The cream of pumpkin with ice cream at Man Fu Yuan is definitely a nod to Western influences.
Chinese restaurants now commonly serve wines with their dishes. Stemware no longer looks alien alongside chopsticks and fine bone china utensils as seen at Jia Wei, Grand Mercure Roxy Hotel.
Jia Wei at Grand Mercure Roxy Hotel using bold swathes of sauce to dramatize their appetisers.
Dessert of lemongrass jelly in a martini glass, at Jia Wei
Yu Cuisine at Marina Bay Sands is a total departure from traditional Chinese decor. Blue, silver and grey conspire to lend an underwater feel, while plush Western-style chairs give a touch of whimsy.
Yu Cuisine also tries to innovate with its dim sum, but doesn’t stray too far. The dinosaur roll above is an enormous steamed rice roll stuffed with shredded turnip and crunchy batter – it’s their improvised
Chinese tea infused with generous chunks of fruit. Drinks are another area where Yu Cuisine offers new ways of enjoying the same thing.
Jade Garden at Chevrons Club in far west of Singapore is also a Cantonese restaurant that’s serving food with modern plating. Wasabi prawn, chilled crab salad in tomato, and drunken chicken presented with a long swish of teriyaki sauce.
Desserts at Jade Garden too, get a touch of flamboyant flair. A big platter of crushed ice and cut fruit sets the stage for shot glasses of mango pudding, lemongrass jelly with sherbet, and pumpkin sago with vanilla ice cream. It’s all dressed to impress.
