Bite-sized Bus Rides: Bus 23, Part 1
By Lorraine Koh - Wednesday, Aug 31, 2011
Usually when I chance upon a restaurant I like, I don’t wait a second to rave about it. But I dragged my feet writing a review for Swis Ling BBQ Restaurant and Coffee Shop. Here’s the thing: besides the wonderful food they’ve been serving me, I also enjoyed the tranquillity of eating by the street side with no more than 10 other tables, while an eclectic mix of oldies played softly in the background. Inviting too many people there will destroy this ambience, an ambience already rare in Singapore.
My friends, ranging from the demanding, deep-pocketed ones to the undiscerning, like this place too – it is one of my favourite choices for social gatherings. I remembered how the image of their bloated cheeks and greasy mouths used to please me. I guess the joy in eating comes partly from the power to share.
The first dish that I, and many others, fell in love with was the Butter Pork. It is creamy and buttery with a tinge of spiciness coming from the chopped chilli padi. The curry leaves adds a refreshing citrusy flavor to this can-be-easily cloying dish. I preferred this to the one served by Two Chefs at Commonwealth, which had a strong milk powdery taste and brought back bad memories of my mother force-feeding me with formulae milk.
Another buttery dish that is worth noting is the Salted Egg Frog Legs. The meat was masterfully fried to a crisp yet not drained of all its moisture. It remained reasonably crispy even after a generous coat of salted egg and butter.
A lesser known but absolutely fantastic dish is Assam Stingray. Here’s a little story behind it: The restaurant used to offer sambal grilled stingray but stopped ever since the new nearby car park took away half of the available sitting area. The small space that remained would be too hazy with the thick smoke floating around. It turned out to be a blessing in disguise because they came up with the assam version which is as, if not more delicious than its predecessor.
It has been two years when I first visited Swis Ling. At that time, its clientele was mainly Ah Peks and their paid lovers. Today, I see more young executives and expats, whom I think will otherwise not set foot on this derelict street in Chinatown. This, by itself, says enough about the food.
American poet Ralph Waldo Emerson once said, “Life is a journey, not a destination.” Makansutra is kicking off a DIY series of where to eat, see, play and stay using public transportation. This series is not for the rush hour crowd, but for people who enjoy the finer things in life – like a vexatious jingle once crooned, “Love your ride.”
The first bus we are hopping on is Bus Number 23. Usual patrons of the 23 include your arty-farty design students and those from the Indian community travelling to Little India. To be honest, there’s a lot to do on just this one bus ride alone and we urge you to take your time to explore this fascinating route.
(Stop# 07319 Aft Allenby Rd) Antoinette 30 Penhas Road
At Antoinette, you’ll find lovingly-crafted cakes and other French desserts like Mont Blanc and Le Royale. Chef Pang Kok Keong left Canale and its famed macarons behind to start his own patisserie and has not looked back since. Not recommended for those allergic to too-pretty things.
(Stop# 07419 opp Veersamy Rd) Swee Choon Tim Sum restaurant 191 Jln Besar
Get your bao fix here when the sun goes down and in the wee hours of the morning. Try the crispy mee sua noodle cake and banana fritter too.
(Stop# 07419 opp Veersamy Rd) Sungei Road Laksa Blk 27 Jln Berseh
We love the taste of tradition in one bowl of laksa. Owner Mr Wong sticks to charcoal fire for his gravy and the laksa isn’t heavily doused with coconut milk.
(Stop# 07419 Opp Veersamy Rd) Lim Ah Boy (everything for riders) 3 Kelantan Lane
Bikers from all over the island swear by this no-frills bike shop. At Lim Ah Boy’s, you’re almost certain to obtain the best prices on anything related to motorcycles. Patronised by people from all walks of life, this place is for the serious biker.
(Stop# 07419 Opp Veersamy Rd) Sungei Road Flea Market Sungei Road
Stripped down to the very essence of what a flea market is, drop by the Sungei Road Flea Market to see hawkers selling everything from vintage cameras, used CDs, to old photographs of Singapore. It’s like you stumbled upon a blast from the past.
(Stop# 07419 Opp Veersamy Rd) Wanderlust Hotel 2 Dickson Road
A design-driven boutique hotel in an area dominated by backpacker’s hostels, Wanderlust is an inspiring place to rest your fatigued self. Expect fancy rooms with Pop Art decor.
(Stop# 07531 After Sim Lim Square) Shine Korea Supermarket Burlington Square, 175 Bencoolen Street
Frequented by Korean housewives and youngsters caught up in the Korean wave, Shine Korea Supermarket has a wide range of Korean foodstuffs in Singapore. Stock up on kimchi, rice cakes and red bean paste at affordable prices.
Stay tune for part two of where to eat, stay and play with Bus 23!