SE Asian Fare Takes A Bite Of The Big Apple
By Chin Hui Wen - Monday, Mar 26, 2012
New York City’s dining scene is seeing an influx of Southeast Asian-inspired dining spots. The trend is taking the city by storm, with The New York Times heralding it as second wave Asian fusion. The slew of places which opened in the last year include Wong, Masak and Ngam. Not long before that, Betel and Purple Yam entered the scene.
SEA ingredients taking the spotlight
Previously, Asian ingredients were merely introduced into Western dishes, often in the form of a token sauce or spice blend. But now, Asian food provides a start for recipes. At Masak, kuih pi tee is a base for unique fillings like hen of the woods mushrooms, pulled pork or foie gras. The traditional Filipino cake, bibingka gets a dose of French feta cheese at Purple Yam.
Holistic Approach
Besides focusing on Southeast Asian flavors, the new batch of East meets West restaurants are idealistic about health and the environment. Purple Yam serves heirloom meats by Heritage Foods USA (an environmentally responsible purveyor that supports farmers and ranchers) and organic rice from the Philippines. “We do not over salt food and avoid what many Asian restaurants do–drown food in sugar,” says Amy Besa, who runs Purple Yam with her husband, chef Romy Dorotan. Chef Hong Thaimee of Ngam is dedicated to using sustainable seafood. The products at her restaurant come direct from local farms and specialty growers.
A Casual Affair
Current Southeast Asian places are also more casual than their predecessors. Communal tables are used at Ngam, Betel and Wong to create a convivial atmosphere. Larry Reutens, whose rustic eatery, Masak, features an open kitchen, says, “I wanted a casual dining experience because that’s the way I like to eat when I’m with friends or family. I’m standing right there, so I still feel very connected to the guests.”
New Southeast Asian cuisine is flexible and the courses are not structured. As per the traditional Southeast Asian dining style, communal plates can be ordered, all arriving at the same time. The experience is not as fussy as it used to be. This makes it appealing to a younger crowd. Customers like Dana Miller, 25, say, “I like that I can have little tastes of different things. The fact that many dishes, like meat-stuffed buns, can be tackled with your hands makes the food more approachable than the fusion food of our parents era.”