School of Culinary Rock
By Lorraine Koh - Monday, Oct 03, 2011
You may or may not notice, but swankier and more well-established culinary schools are making their mark in Singapore and they are boosting a healthy intake of Anthony Bourdain and Jamie Oliver wannabes. With the increase of skilled chefs and bakers what does this spell for the local food front? Can we expect more Willin Lows (state from where) and Eldwin Chua and does this spell hope for a second generation of hawkers to inherit this fast fading culture?
“There is an increased interest in culinary schools and a lot of that comes from the mass media exposing all of us to the riches of the world of food. The field of food is expanding and the need for educated and qualified professionals is increasing. Young people are viewing our field as a viable career option,” says Chef Eve Felder, managing director of the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), Singapore. (How big and when they open and intake Singapore)
Chef Christophe Megel, CEO at At-Sunrice attributes the increased interest to the rise of celebrity chefs and the mass media. However we wonder if students join the culinary institute as a result of the glitz and glamour of television. Megel comments, “We have taken an approach where we have developed personality tests online. That way we can identify talent, from there we have several interviews where the positioning of the program is very clear. Our position is At-Sunrice is a professional culinary institute.” Chef Megel was previously the executive chef at The Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore and was awarded the title Executive Chef of the Year at the World Gourmet Summit in 2002.
Felder states, “It is easy to get swept away with the glamour through television. As we all know it is a lot of work to be a great chef. The CIA has a work requirement that all students must fulfill before entering the degree program. We want the students to realize the intensity of the industry they are entering and they must have the passion.” In order to let future students understand the realities of being a chef, the CIA requires that you gain six months of hands-on food preparation experience in a professional kitchen or bakery working with fresh ingredients, for at least 10–15 hours a week, before you are admitted to the school.
But then, how does it affect our local food culture? Felder stresses that at the CIA, students are equipped with the fundamentals of cooking, and will have the foundational knowledge to cook anything, whether it be chicken rice or risotto. “We believe it is very important for each student to embrace their personal cuisine and childhood memories. Throughout the curriculum, students have the opportunity to write about and prepare dishes that are significant to them. The CIA also has a research department whose primary goal is to record and preserve traditional foodways.”
Megel believes that ensuring the continuation of Singapore’s street hawker food is a responsibility of culinary schools. He says, “From day one we have adopted Asian food modules to be taught side by side with Western food modules. We also teach our students how to cook Singapore cuisines. But what we mainly focus on is the technique and the philosophy behind the dish.”
At culinary schools, one will be equipped with all the necessary skills to whip up signature Singapore dishes. Although ultimately, we may expect more exciting culinary creations in the future, it is not forthcoming that there will be a new flood of local food warriors that will take our comfort food culture to the next level.