The Midnight Appetite – Dolly Dining At Dawn
By Lorraine Koh - Thursday, Sep 29, 2011
Most of us are still deep in slumber at 5am. But not Kaili Ong, that’s the time when she has just knocked off after her gig at local night spot Shanghai Dolly at Clarke Quay. Her shift starts from midnight till 4.55am, and she performs daily, except on Thursday. Now for those of us who prize sleep more than gold, those hours seems rather ridiculous. But Ong loves performing. Her first claim to fame was as a finalist for the local television show Superband. The reality talent show may have been short-lived, but not her love for her stage. She has been performing at Dragonfly @ St James Power Station and now Shanghai Dolly for a total of four years now. Ong quips, “When I am on stage, I feel as though finally, I have somewhere to show my talent and the real me.” But what about off stage when the lights are off and the curtain are down and those dreaded hunger pangs set in at 5am?
While some of her fellow performers have succumbed to eating at kopi tiams near their homes or fast food joints during that ungodly hour, Ong usually has a few eating spots close to her heart. She suggested we meet up for some Yu Sheng (raw fish salad) at Maxwell Food Centre at 5am. Think yu sheng, and images of that Chinese New Year dish coupled with crackers and drenched in sweet plum sauce comes to mind. However the yu sheng she refers to is a different matter altogether. Located at Maxwell Food Centre, at a stall that’s only open from 4 am to 8 am, Tian Ji Zhou Ping has built up quite a cult following who brave the odd hours for a plate of their Yu Sheng. This stall has been rated by the Makansutra team and its porridge is the hearty and grainy version, unlike its more congee-like counterparts. But Ong has her sights set purely on the raw fish salad.
The Yu Sheng boasts a chaotic mix of fresh water fish pieces, otherwise known as carp, fried shallot oil, ginger slices, spring onion and generous doses of sesame oil. “When you first see the dish, it may not look like much, but once you tried it, you’ll just love it,” Ong gushes. “The raw fish is springy in texture and does not taste fishy at all. I also love the sesame oil flavour. I usually have cravings for the yu sheng here, and try to eat it once a week!” The dish is light and refreshing and the fish exudes a subtle sweetness. The reason for its popularity lies in the freshness of the fish and vegetables used – although it may be a little too lightweight for those who need more carbs in their diet. The petite songstress did have some crispy you tiaos on the side, but we notice that she’s no binger. Gotta give her props for smart eating.
Tian Ji Zhou Ping
1 Kadayanallur Street
#01-13 Maxwell Food Centre S069184
Open daily 3.30 am to 8 am (or once the raw fish salad sells out)
