A Spice World in Penang
By CK Lam - Friday, Dec 16, 2011
If you are one of those who want to escape this whole Christmas season, why not run to Penang and try something that has nothing to do with Christmas – Indian Muslim Food.
At Gurney Drive, there are two places where one can get to taste the Mamak delicacies of Persambur (Indian Rojak) and Mee Goreng (Indian style fried noodle). Mamak, a term used by Malaysians, are Indians who embraced Muslim as a religion, hence they do not eat pork and they go to the mosque for prayers. Most people would usually head to the food court at the end of Gurney Drive; however there is another hidden gem at the mid section of Gurney Drive which serves equally good dishes. The small food court is partially hidden as it is set back about 100 meters from the road and there is always the likelihood of driving past it without noticing!
The food court complex is called Kompleks Makanan Persiaran Gurney (KMPG), and it is generally small by any standard and surprisingly given that it is in a prime area, it is only occupied by few stalls. However, do not be deterred as the Pasembur and Mee Goreng are noteworthy eats. One of the stall is called Edgecombe Road Pasembur and the other Edgecombe Road Mee Goreng. Usually business gets hectic around three in the afternoon and getting a table can be quite challenging!
The selection of ingredients for the Pasembur is fairly large and neatly arranged, ranging from extra-large squid, fish pan cake of different shapes, deep fried yellow soybean cakes (taukwa) to all-time favorites such as the cucur udang (prawn fritters) and crispy crackers. At times they may display more exotic ingredients like large fried king prawns and flower crabs. The prices of each item are clearly stated on a sign board.
A basic plate comes with fresh shredded cucumber and yam bean (Chinese turnip) together with blanched bean sprouts laid at the bottom of the plate. The customers’ selections are then place on top of the vegetables after which a ladleful of warm orangey spicy and sweet peanut potato gravy is drizzled over the plate. The fritters and crackers taste delightful especially when they are soaked in the spicy and sweet gravy. For those who don’t like the Pasembur literally flooded with the orangey gravy, do request to have it served separately.
On the other hand, the Mee Goreng consists of yellow noodles fried with tiny boiled potato cubes, bean sprouts, prawn fritters, cubes of deep fried tofu and smattering of spicy stew squid. The noodles are moist and delightful with the sweet and spicy chili sauce, with a hint of sourness from the accompanying lime.
There is another great way of having the noodles serve and that is Mee Rebus. Instead of having the yellow noodle fried, it is first blanched and then runny potato based gravy is poured over it. The gravy is like a version of a tomato soup but slightly spicy with a hint of tanginess. It is then garnished with whole or half hardboiled egg, finely chopped peanuts and fried shallots.
Finally quench your thirst by ordering the three layered Ice Tea. The drink is actually brewed tea at the top layer, the second layer (white layer) being the milk, and the bottom layer of Gula Melaka(palm sugar). The other drink that is as popular will be the hot Teh Tarik (literally “pulled tea”, it refers to tea which has been poured back and forth repeatedly between two glasses from a height).
Head over to this complex if your desire is for a simple and hearty fare of Mamak delicacies. The complex has a commanding view of the seafront and is well shaded by the old huge trees bordering the back of the complex. It is opened from noon till late evening.