The sound of a sizzling steak on a hotplate.

Savoury brown sauce poured over a chicken chop.

As kids, it was a real treat whenever our parents took us out for Western food. Back then, many of us were oblivious to the fact that the Western food we chowed down while growing up was actually Hainanese Western food – a term that may seem strange to some but is one of those local food lingos we get.

Although some Hainanese Western food establishments have transformed into more commercial restaurant chains like Jack’s Place Steak House and Han’s, there are a few that remained as one-restaurant shows, unchanging both in their menu and décor. But is the humble Hainanese Western food joint losing its place and flavour in a Singapore dominated by fast food and globalised tastebuds?

It’s quite interesting to note that Hainanese Western food actually holds traces of Singapore’s British colony heritage. In the early days, the Hainanese would work abroad European and British ships as cooks. “That’s why we have this Western-style Hainanese eatery catering to that need here,” comments Raymond Say, owner of Mariners’ Corner at Maritime House. Later, the Hainanese would also work as house help for British families. That was when the Hainanese would hone their culinary Western food skills and pass down the know-how to their descendants who will eventually open their own restaurants.

“From a layman’s point of view, Hainanese Western food means Western food that is prepared or cooked by Hainanese or cooks with links to the Hainanese descent. It can also mean F&B establishments with Hainanese links,” says Jerry Lim, senior marketing manager of Jack’s Place Steak House who is also a third-generation Hainanese. He adds that the definition of Hainanese Western food refers to the use and blend of local food produce into the cooking and preparation of Western food.

Usually it is in Hainanese Western food coffee houses where you’ll see both Asian and Western dishes being sold side by side. Jimmy Lim, the owner of Prince Coffee House – which has been in operation since 1977 – cites both its Hainanese Pork Chops and Beef Hor Fun as the coffee house’s bestsellers.

So how do they stay relevant in an unpredictable food industry? Jimmy Lim believes in the personal touch. “The reason we’re able to retain our customers throughout all these years is because I make an effort to ask them about the food and give recommendations.”

Jerry Lim says, “We stay relevant by listening to the needs of our customers and moderate that with the evolution of the economy.” Interestingly, pork chops are no longer served at Jack’s Place Steak House even though he feels that it’s a Hainanese Western food signature dish. He adds, “With globalisation and modernisation, I feel that some of the values and heritage are slowly dissolving, and Hainanese Western Food is no exception. In addition, Western food is no longer defined into sub-dialect categories and does not necessary creates that premium branding either.”

In our fast-paced ever-evolving world, where some of us are ever too eager to embrace the new and celebrity-driven factor in restaurants, there is still a group of diners who yearn for comforting, culturally rich Western food with an Asian touch.

Makansutra lists down some of these Hainanese Western food restaurants:

Jack’s Place Steak House

The Lowdown: Jack’s Place Steak House is one of the pioneers in casual Hainanese Western food fare and affordable set lunches. The founder, Say Lip Hai, started out as a cook boy with the British troops in Sembawang. Currently, Jack’s Place Steak House has about 15 restaurants around the island and is managed by second- and third-generation family members. It offers the usual steak and chop sets while classic dishes include Half Lobster and Steak Combo, and Lobster Thermidor.

Han’s

The Lowdown: Founded by the Han siblings in 1977, Han’s started out as a cake shop known as Han’s Bakery & Confectionary. It was located at Upper Thomson Rd. In 1980, the bakery incorporated a café. Currently, Han’s has expanded to 17 outlets. It is known for its more economical sets. All-day set meals come with soup, main course, drinks and dessert. It also touts a wide range of local flavours like Mui Fun, Hor Fun and Fried Rice.

Prince Coffee House

The Lowdown: Opened in 1977, Prince Coffee House has recently moved from its rather battered quarters at Coronation Shopping Plaza to a better-lit (but still retro looking) spot around Arab Street. Regulars swear by its Beef Hor Fun, Chicken Pie (Makansutra-rated) and hotplate steaks.

249 Beach Road, Singapore
Tel: 6468 2088
Opens daily 11am – 9pm

Shashlik Restaurant

The Lowdown: An old granddaddy located in a forgotten area of Orchard Road, Shashlik Restaurant was set up in 1986 by Hainanese migrants who were laid off after a local Russian restaurant Troika closed down in 1985. Its dishes are a mixture of Hainanese with Russian food fare. The Shashlik Beef Fillet, the oxtail sets, Borsch soup and not forgetting desserts like Cherry Jubilee flambé are recommended items from this restaurant.

545 Orchard Road,
#06-19 Far East Shopping Centre, Singapore
Tel: 6732 6401
Opens daily 12noon – 3pm, 6.30pm – 10.30pm

Borsch Steakhouse
The Lowdown: When Russian restaurant Troika shut its doors permanently in 1985, half of its staff went to set up Shashlik Restaurant. The others opened Borsch Steakhouse. Its set lunches are rather affordable and of course, do try the signature Borsch soup, rib eye steaks and Beef Shashlik. Borsch Steakhouse’s décor is no-frills and family-friendly.

58 Serangoon Garden Way, Singapore
Tel: 6280 4351
Opens daily 11am – 3pm, 6pm – 10pm

Mariners’ Corner Restaurant
The Lowdown: This Hainanese Western food restaurant has been serving the same old consistent fare since 1984. It is now manned by the Say brothers, Raymond and Chef Bermuda. Besides the usual steak sets, they also offer unique dishes like Shishamo (fried pregnant fish) and Escargots in Butter Sauce. While the hotplate Tenderloin Steaks are very popular, Raymond would rather you try the Sirloin Steaks as “it has that beefy bite and texture.”

120 Cantonment Road,
#01-02, Maritime House, Singapore
Tel: 6224 9928
Opens daily 11am – 3pm, 6pm – 10pm