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Maison Kayser: Bonjour to bread

By Catherine Ling - Monday, Jan 16, 2012

The French are famously fanatical about bread. Bread is a daily necessity, and there is almost always a good boulangerie (French bakery) at every corner in Paris. Despite the competition, Maison Kayser has made its name as one of the best artisanal bakeries. There are often queues for its crackly baguettes, tasty breads and pastries. Its croissants, so buttery crisp yet light and fluffy, have even earned the praise of leading French newspaper Le Figaro.

 

Leading French bakery, Maison Kayser opens in Singapore.

 

While it is very established in France and Japan, Maison Kayser is not as well known in the rest of Asia. But that looks set to change as it has opened an outlet here at the basement of swanky Scotts Square.

 

Head Executive Chef and President Eric Kayser is a fourth generation master baker who takes great pride in making bread the traditional way. In the year 2000, Eric Kayser earned the distinction of the best baker in France at the annual Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (MOF) awards, which recognizes artisanal excellence.

 

He was here at the 12 Dec 2011 opening, along with Shu Kimura, himself a fifth generation baker, who runs Maison Kayser’s Japanese outlets. This French-Japanese joint venture is confident that Singaporeans will know what good French bread is.

 

The bakery’s croissants are a hit with Japanese expats here.

 

What sets Maison Kayser apart from other bakeries is its focus on natural fermentation. Together with Patrick Castagna, Eric designed a Fermentolevain machine that maintains natural liquid leaven at ideal temperatures. This yeast is cared for each day, and fed by adding flour and water. For bakers, this live yeast starter is what gives life to the breads they make.

 

The Singapore outlet also uses machines, but it does not have the Fermentolevain. Still, they focus on slow kneading and natural, long fermentation techniques (over 20 hours) to develop more intense flavour for their breads. This is in contrast to the usage of commercial yeast which rises quickly (1-2 hours) but does not yield complex flavours.

 

Locals checking out the French goods.

 

The Singapore store saw five Paris-trained Japanese bakers and one from Paris to help start up operations. Two of the Japanese, a master baker and a second baker, will remain here for two years to continue training the local staff and to ensure quality of breads made here. Shu Kimura himself will be here every two months.

 

Gena Sri Hanna, Manager of Maison Kayser Singapore, says 90% of their clientele are foreigners, mainly French and Japanese. Perhaps that is not surprising, given that prices here are almost double that of other bakeries. In terms of best-selling items, the French love the baguettes and batards; the Japanese sweep up the croissants, and locals lean towards the sweet pastries, especially stuff with chocolate.

 

Eric Kayser’s signature Baguette Monge

 

However, the humid weather in Singapore poses a huge problem for the breads here. In addition to having fresh batches of baguettes every two hours, Maison Kayser offers a card with advice on how best to enjoy the breads and pastries – generally with a light toasting in the oven prior to consumption.

 

For baking enthusiasts, the bakery’s website features some recipes.

 

Still, it is a good thing that a slice of Parisian life has come to Singapore. The bakery also offers gourmet ready-made sandwiches and salads along with tea and coffee at its premises.

 

Maison Kayser is at 6 Scotts Road, #B1-09, Scotts Square, Singapore 228209. Open daily from 8am to 8pm.